Mendocino gets all the attention, with its whitewashed charm and boutiques, but this time, we're going to cruise right on by and head straight for the no-nonsense segment of the North Coast. Fort Bragg, about 10 miles north of Mendocino, is a fishing and lumber town of about 6,500 residents who have seen both those industries all but shut down. Tourism is going strong, though, and Fort Bragg invites visitors to shop its spruced-up downtown, walk its refurbished log-haul trestle, dine in its restaurants, explore its beaches and harbor, and learn about its redwood forests with a ride on a local locomotive...